Issue: 06/12/2013December 2013

Steak-ing Claim in the New Central

Edited by IPP Fergus Fung; source: www.womguide.com

It doesn’t ‘just so happen’ that Central has a bunch of new restaurants. For decades the central district has been the food hub where some of the best restaurants and new concepts have blossomed, from local favorites to Internationally acclaimed, from simple DaiPaiDongs to fine dining. The restaurant scene is expanding, and so is Central itself. In the next few weeks, let WOM lead the way so you can eat through the new Central. We start our journey with steaks.

Hidden at the Soho end of Peel Street is a brand new steakhouse opened and operated by the team who brought a taste of other cuisines including Vietnamese and Spanish food to Hong Kong. It is the French Steak Frites’ turn to delight diners with a simple menu.

Under the playful decor with reminiscence of Parisian city landscapes and paintings of its landmarks in the dining room, we find a cozy space for this eatery’s French offerings. There is nothing complex about the restaurant’s menu, which is an all-or-nothing $258 menu for a green salad with walnuts, as well as an order of Steak and French fries served alongside a special homemade sauce.

The meal begins with crusty French bread served with butter. Truth be told the bread is ok but still it is a nice addition to enjoy with the salad.

The salad features a handful of mixed greens, embellished with chopped walnuts and dressed with a mustard vinaigrette. The tartness from the dressing contrasts with the richness from walnuts, while the crisp greens get the appetite ready for the steak and fries to come.

Steaks here are USDA Prime Ribeye steak from grassfed cows of Nebraska. Diners are first served two-thirds of their portioned steaks on a plate with French Fries, while the other one third are kept warm. The steak is best served medium or medium rare, with a good brown crust on the outside and quivers lightly with pinkness within. The Fries are deep fried until golden and crisp throughout. The special homemade sauce is served alongside to accompany the Fries, which can be just as satisfying and addictive to be consumed on their own.

It may be unseemly to say that in this steakhouse the pastry chef may have more items to cook than the chef in charge of savory items (steak frites only). Desserts are presented on a cart which is pushed towards each table as diners can order their own at an additional cost.

Dessert Portions are generally meant for sharing. The varieties of desserts served are decidedly French, with signatures such as “Oeufs a la Neige” (Eggs in Snow), also known to many as “Floating Islands”. These poached meringues are served with a sweet custard. We had more luck with them than other more technically demanding pastries such as mille-feuille, Saint-Honore and Baba au Rhum. An alternative would be to drink your dessert, as a selection of cocktails can mark a sweet ending to a satisfying Steak Frites dinner.

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